Carbon monoxide prevents the body from using oxygen efficiently, causing asphyxiation (suffocation). CO typically remains inside the body for hours.

The effects depend on how much carbon monoxide is in the air, how long it is breathed, and how healthy an individual is. Exposure to carbon monoxide can include headache, loss of alertness, symptoms similar to the flu such as nausea, fatigue, fast breathing, confusion, disorientation and overall weakness. In addition, it can cause chest pain in people with heart disease. CO can also impair judgment. High concentrations of CO can cause seizures, unconsciousness and death. The longer a person breathes CO, the worse the effects can be.

The reason Boston Brick & Stone has launched this advisory campaign is because of the many CO hazards we come across on a daily basis.

One example is that in 1994 there were literally hundreds of thousands of chimneys damaged or destroyed by the Northridge earthquake. Many of these chimneys were incorrectly repaired. Boston Brick & Stone has discovered over the course of inspecting more than 50,000 chimneys that approximately 1 in every 20 fireplace systems, is a potential Carbon Monoxide health hazard or threat. We have seen entire families sickly with what looked like common cold symptoms moving around the house like the walking dead.

I will never forget the first time I witnessed this.

The mother told me they had all been sick since the beginning of November. It was now February and when they tried to use their recently repaired fireplace it didn’t work. Upon inspection I found that the contractor who rebuilt the chimney that last summer completely sealed off the gas water heater and the furnace flues, (a common mistake) allowing all the products of combustion from these two appliances to come up through the floors from the crawl space. Once November came the furnace started working day and night poisoning the family in the process.

Thank goodness the fireplace didn’t work, as that is what prompted the detection of the problem!

Boston Brick & Stone has seen that 1 in 100 of these chimneys have had their entire furnace and water heater flues sealed off in the chimney by a contractor who did not know what he was doing. Most of these did have working fireplaces so one cannot equate a working fireplace to a working appliance flue.

A house with a gas furnace working properly may have a CO concentration in the air of 1-2 ppm (ppm is Parts Per Million, an expression that compares how many parts of CO, or any other gas, there are for every million parts of regular air).

Another example is having all four gas burners on the stove on for 20 minutes. This can cause the level to rise to 35 or even 120 ppm. A furnace that isn’t working properly can raise the level to 1,000 ppm - high enough to cause death in a couple of hours in a well sealed house.

If it were not for the fact that these families were living in old homes that have a tremendous amount of ventilation through the doors, windows and even the walls and ceilings, they would surely have suffered serious long-term health consequences. Even with the older ventilated homes some would not have been so lucky as there are those who are more at risk than others.

Carbon Monoxide can be fatal to some and cause serious health problems to others.

Scientists currently consider 35-ppm (which means that there is 35 parts of CO to every million parts of regular air) exposure over a single hour to be the maximum.

You can expect the CO concentration in outdoor air to be below 1-2 ppm, except near streets and highways.

Exposure of less than 9 ppm CO (over an 8-hour average) in living areas is currently considered safe but I personally expect these levels to be reevaluated in the near future because these guidelines may not provide sufficient protection for people with heart or lung problems.

Effects of exposure to CO are generally worse for older people, unborn children and people with heart, circulatory, or lung disease. At the time of this writing there really is no known safe level of carbon monoxide.

If you suspect a person has CO poisoning get them outside into fresh air immediately. Call 911 and/or the Poison Control Center at 1-800-222-1222. Then open as many windows in the home as possible.

When you call for help, report that you think there is carbon monoxide poisoning. After the emergency, you must have the appliances, which burn gas or fuel (e.g., furnace, oil burner, stove or hot water heater, etc.) inspected by a professional and repaired if needed.

Having your fireplace inspected at regular intervals by a competent inspector is another well-advised safety precaution. Any fireplace that does not completely evacuate the products of combustion for any reason is a potential CO threat.

The inspector will always recommend solutions to any problems or potential problems found during the inspection. Boston Brick & Stone always offers prices for the recommended solutions on every chimney we inspect.

Per our company policy we also recommend that Carbon Monoxide detectors be placed throughout the house, especially around the fireplace.

Where a gas log fireplace is set up Carbon Monoxide detectors are a must. Because CO has the same density as air and therefore simply moves around the room with the air we recommend the installation of at least three CO detectors in any room which has a gas log set up.

The detectors are relatively inexpensive and are installed by almost anyone who can change a light bulb. Be sure to buy the type that has an audible alarm. Hardware stores sell these for between $35.00 and $50.00 each.

A gas log fireplace with a damper installed must have the damper locked in the open position. See “Dampers in Gas Log Fireplaces” on our website in the “New and Articles” section.

The reason for this code is to prevent Carbon Monoxide (CO) poisoning from occurring in a gas log fireplace. Because gas burns so cleanly the occupants of the home do not usually notice whether the damper is open or closed. They could (and often do) forget to open the damper before lighting the gas logs. The damper, closing off the chimney, routes the products of combustion, which contains varying amounts of Carbon Monoxide straight into the interior of the room where it poses a serious health threat to the occupants.

Carbon Monoxide can be fatal to some and cause serious health problems to others.

Scientists currently consider 35 Parts Per Million (ppm — which means that there is 35 parts of CO to every million parts of air) exposure over a single hour to be the maximum. You can expect the CO concentration in outdoor air to be below 1-2 ppm, except near streets and highways.

Exposure of less than 9 ppm CO (over an 8-hour average) in living areas is currently considered safe but I personally expect these levels to be reevaluated in the near future because these guidelines may not provide sufficient protection for people with heart or lung problems. At the time of this writing there is no known safe level of carbon monoxide. For further information on Carbon Monoxide visit our “News and Articles” section of our website and read “Carbon Monoxide — The Facts”.

Fireplaces that do not have Gas Logs and burn solid fuel such as real wood are allowed (and should) have properly working dampers.

There is no danger of Carbon Monoxide poisoning in a properly working wood burning fireplace. In such a fireplace the damper can be accidentally left in the closed position but that fact would soon become obvious as the room filled up with smoke — forcing the occupants to either extinguish the fire of open the damper.

The danger of an improperly working fireplace is that it can allow small amounts of the products of combustion into the room and over time this can be a health hazard.

If you smell smoke during a fire you must act to protect your health. See “Smoking Fireplace Tips” on our website for a quick solution.

Having your fireplace inspected at regular intervals by a competent inspector is always the best and safest solution. The inspector will always recommend solutions to any problems or potential problems found during the inspection.

Boston Brick & Stone always offers prices for the recommended solutions on every chimney we inspect.

As a rule we also recommend that Carbon Monoxide detectors be placed throughout the house, especially around the fireplace.

Where a gas log fireplace is set up Carbon Monoxide detectors are a must. Because CO has the same density as air and therefore simply moves around the room with the air we recommend the installation of at least three CO detectors in any room which has a gas log set up.

The detectors are relatively inexpensive and are installed by almost anyone who can change a light bulb. Be sure to buy the type that has an audible alarm. Hardware stores sell these for between $35.00 and $50.00 each.

There are few improvements you can make to your outdoor living experience that will bring a family or group of friends together like an outdoor fireplace. There is something about the mesmerizing flames and the “crack” and “pop” of a real wood burning fire that fascinates people, young and old alike. There is a deep seated affinity for fire that most of us share as human beings. After all, it was the control of fire that allowed us to take our first steps toward planetary domination. A fireplace has always been associated with “community”. Fire and community has its roots in ancient times when man had to keep an eternal flame alive because he had not yet developed the technology to light a fire at whim. As far back as history can take us we find records of fires burning in the center of villages, towns and cities so all inhabitants would have free and easy access to the fire.

So it is no wonder a fire has the power to draw people together. Whether you are roasting marshmallows with your family or entertaining the Board of Directors, an outdoor fireplace will surely serve to bring you closer together.

Sadly, the days of the wood burning fireplace have come to an end. On March 7th, 2008 the South Coast Air Quality Management District adopted Rule 455 that effectively outlaws wood burning fireplaces. After September 8, 2008 it will be illegal to construct a wood burning fireplace within the South Coast Air Basin. For full details of AMQD Rule 455 visit; http://www.aqmd.gov. Search for “recently adopted Rules”.

If you have ever considered building an outdoor fireplace now would be the time. If you wait until after September this year it will be against the law. Prices range into the tens of thousands but don’t be alarmed. With several available kits on the market there is a real masonry fireplace for almost any budget. You could be one of the last legal owners of a wood burning fireplace, built with the required city permits for under $3500. Some people are having these basic units installed now and plan to add the design elements later when finances will allow. An understanding of basic economics alone has compelled many to install an outdoor fireplace on their property. Rule 455 intends to stop the supply. If a fireplace is considered to be a specialty item, (no longer available) the demand will increase. You do the math!

When considering an outdoor fireplace there are several things you should be aware of. The location is very important. Most city codes require the structure be at least 5-feet away from the property line and 15-feet away from any other structure such as the house or a garage. There are a few ways of satisfying this code requirement. One is to situate the fireplace within a patio cover or “arbor”. In addition, location plays a determining role in how well a fireplace will perform. For example, a fireplace place built under a canopy of large trees could possibly fill the yard with smoke. Therefore ventilation is a priority consideration when determining where your fireplace will be located. The most convenient location may not be the most practical.

Naturally, design will be at the top of anyone’s list of priorities. Many outdoor fireplaces incorporate the same design elements that have been used elsewhere on the property. Size and height play a role in function as well as aesthetics. For example a large fireplace with a short stout chimney stack could be problematic. There is a ratio one must follow when designing the system.

The design and construction of any fireplace is a highly specialized skill. When considering a contractor to build your fireplace make sure they are well versed with today’s codes and technology. Ask to visit some properties where they have recently constructed outdoor fireplaces. If possible talk to the owners of the fireplace to ensure there are no problems with it. And above all, enjoy the wood burning fireplace! It will not be around forever and you may very well be the last of mankind to do so.

1. The fireplace must have a chimney. You may laugh but we have seen many homes that have what appear to be a fireplace but no chimney!
2. The chimney must not be blocked off. There are many ways the chimney can be blocked off. The following are the most common.
   1. The damper is in the closed position.
   2. A chimney cap that does not fit the chimney has been installed
   3. A damper that does not fit the system has been installed.
   4. An animal (or insect) has built a nest or has died in the chimney.
   5. Someone has intentionally blocked the chimney off to prevent a down draft.
   6. The chimney has been incorrectly repaired.
3. The chimney must not be partially blocked off. All of items “a” through “f” apply here. Additionally, the most common way a chimney becomes partially blocked off is by creosote (or soot) build-up. Creosote is the residue normally left on the inside walls of the chimney after burning wood. In time it can build up to a point where it becomes hazardous. The hazard is when this build up becomes thick enough to catch on fire and start what is called a chimney fire. This is what “Chimney Sweeps” do. They sweep out this black soot so that it does not partially block off the chimney and become a chimney fire hazard. Yet another way the chimney can become blocked off is by a creosote build-up on the spark arrester, which is normally part of the chimney cap. This soot can form on the metal screen and become so thick that it will close off the small openings.
4. The size of the firebox must be correct to suit the size of the chimney. The part of the chimney through which the smoke travels is called the flue. The flue and the firebox opening (that part of the fireplace that you put the wood in to burn) have a relation in size. We call it the “Drafting Ratio”. It’s a term that simply means the size of the firebox opening in relation to the size of the pipe (or flue). This relation in size determines whether or not the system will draft. The bigger the firebox opening the bigger the flue pipe must be. The rule of thumb ratio is 1:10. This means that for every 10 square inches of firebox opening there must be 1-square inch of flue. To get a good idea of this you can perform this simple exercise.
   1. Imagine a very large firebox opening, one you could easily walk inside of and stand.
   2. Now imagine a roaring fire inside the fireplace (not while you are still inside the fireplace).
   3. Now imagine a pipe (or flue as we call it) the size of the exhaust pipe on your car trying to accommodate all of the smoke, hot gasses and rising air that the fire is producing. It will surely fail because it simply isn’t big enough. It will become overwhelmed and allow the smoke and hot gasses to come inside the room.
   4. Now hold your arms out in front of you like they are encircling a giant tree trunk and bring your fingertips together. Now picture a pipe (or flue) the same size as the opening your arms are forming. That is about the size of flue you would need for that very big fireplace.
   5. Now picture a fireplace the size of a normal doggie door through which a small pet can travel back and forth at will. How big of a flue do you suppose a fireplace that small would require? Get the picture? The size of the firebox opening determines the size of the flue. A big fireplace requires a big flue.
5. Incorrect design. As part of number “4” above there is the incorrect design issue. In order to ensure the fireplace works the builder must strictly adhere to fireplace codes and standards. As well as a flue being too small it can also be too large. It can be so large that the heat generated by the fire is not enough to start and maintain a draft. The dimensions of the firebox itself are also important. A fireplace that is too shallow (less than 20-inches deep) may cause problems. Another example is the design of the flue. The builder must never angle any part of the flue more than 30 degrees off of straight up and down. This rule is commonly violated, especially in custom designed fireplaces. One example is the corner fireplace, where the fireplace is built into a corner of the room. In order to get the products of combustion into the chimney’s flue it has to travel more than the usual 16 or so horizontal inches. In some cases the distance can be as great as 4 feet from the top of the firebox to where the chimney flue is located outside of the house. This forces the construction of a long, angled channel that the products of combustion must travel through before reaching the vertical flue. Because this channel is angled at more than 30 degrees it may not allow the products of combustion to travel through it fast enough to provide an adequate draft and the fireplace may smoke. The above are just a few examples of incorrect design. Not all examples are listed here, as it would become too technical for the purpose of this article.
6. There must not be anything interfering with the pressure differences in the fireplace. Again, without getting technical, a fireplace works by hot air rising and creating a negative pressure in the flue. Basically moving air has a lower pressure than air that is not moving. This is also the principle of flight! The air pressure inside the flue is lower (because it is moving quickly up the chimney flue) than the air pressure in the room (which is normally not moving much at all). That is why air flows from the room into the fireplace and on up the chimney. What can interfere with this pressure difference? Listed below are the most common causes.
   1. Wind. If the weather is windy it can create “spoils” of turbulence that can “pressurize” the top of a chimney and push the smoke back down the chimney and into the room.
   2. A “return air vent” in the same room as the fireplace. A return air vent is a large vent through which the furnace or air conditioner draws air. This is the vent where you will normally find your replaceable filters. Modern furnaces and air conditioners circulate the air inside the house by drawing it from one, two and sometimes more, locations throughout the house. The unit then heats or cools that air and blows it back into the house through smaller vents. If the furnace or air conditioner is operating while there is a fire in the fireplace AND the return air vent is in the same room as the fireplace this could cause a drafting problem. By “sucking” the air out of the room the air pressure is lowered. If lowered below that of the pressure inside the chimney’s flue you will get some products of combustion coming into the house.
   3. A tightly sealed house. If the fireplace draws air out of the room it must be replaced. In older homes the air rushes in from between the walls and windows, the doors etc. A newer home may have these areas sealed off to comply with energy conservation laws. Simply opening a window usually remedies this particular problem.
7. Insufficient heat to cause an adequate draft. As mentioned above, the fireplace operates on the principle that hot air rises. As the hot air rises it creates a lowered pressure in the chimney’s flue and air rushes in from the room, complying with nature’s law to create a balance. This air rushing in from the room is the vehicle that carries the products of combustion up the flue and out into the outside air. If the fire you have created does not produce enough heat to cause this to happen there will be a drafting issue. Green wood, wet wood and “pressed logs” from the supermarket will sometimes cause this to occur. Heating the flue prior to the ignition of the fire helps alleviate this problem. See “Simple steps to help stop smoke from coming back into the residence” for more tips on this. Using a gas log lighter will also correct this problem. If you don’t have one, a gas log lighter can usually be installed for somewhere between $500.00 and $1200.00 depending on existing conditions.
8. Fire is not in correct position in firebox. A fire can be too close to the front of the firebox. The fire has to be far enough back to utilize the air rushing in from the room. If it is too close to the front, the products of combustion may escape under this flow and drift into the room. Fireboxes that are too shallow (less than 20-inches deep) are a common cause of this problem. Ensuring that the fire grate (The metal rack that keep the logs off of the firebox floor) is pushed back as far as possible is another easy solution to this problem. An incorrectly sized grate will keep a fire too close to the front. The fire has to be off of the firebox floor in order to provide enough oxygen to accomplish a complete combustion. If no grate is used the fire may smoke badly without producing enough heat to achieve and maintain an adequate draft.

Steps to help a fire draft properly

1. Have your system inspected by a certified, competent inspector. It is not worth risking your health and property for the relatively small fee it costs to have your system certified as safe. The peace of mind alone is worth the fee.
2. If this is the first time you have ever used the fireplace be sure it is not windy outside. Follow these steps on a calm day.
3. Make sure the damper is in the open position.
4. Make sure you have a screen to place in front of the fire to keep sparks and embers from flying into the interior of the room. If your fireplace has the “curtain” screen that hang from the lintel, close and open them before you start the fire. It is a safety hazard to burn a fire without placing the screen in front.
5. If there is a return air vent in the same room as the fireplace, be sure the furnace or air conditioner unit is turned off.
6. If your home is new, built after 1985 in the Southern California area, open a window slightly.
7. Push the fireplace metal grate back as far as it will go in the fireplace.
8. If you have a gas log lighter simply stack some dry wood, about three pieces, in the fireplace metal grate. Roll some newspaper into a “log” and place it beside the pipe with the holes in it. This pipe is the gas log lighter. Light the newspaper “log” on fire and be sure it is burning before you turn on the gas. Once you are sure the newspaper log is producing a nice flame slowly turn the gas shut-off valve on until you here a hissing sound. If the gas does not ignite after 5 seconds turn the gas off. Call a professional to inspect the gas line. Normally it will ignite and engulf the three logs with flame. Adjust the valve until the wood logs are engulfed with flame. Once the logs are burning and producing flames on their own turn the gas shut-off valve off.
9. If you do not have a gas log lighter follow these next steps. Place some kindling wood on top of a rolled up ball of newspaper under the metal fireplace grate. Your local fireplace shop can sell you a product called “Fat Wood” which works well for kindling. Once the kindling or “Fat Wood” is in place stack several small, preferably split pieces of dry wood in the metal grate. Before lighting the kindling take several sheets of newspaper and roll them into a “log”. Light the newspaper “Log” on fire and stick it up the throat as far as you comfortably can. Allow the newspaper to burn half way then drop it onto the wood. This will warm the flue up and start the warm air rising up which will aid the draft. Next light the kindling on fire. Once the kindling has started the small split wood on fire and they are burning nicely place some bigger pieces on top. REMEMBER TO PLACE THE SCREEN IN FRONT OF THE FIRE AFTER LIGHTING IT. NEVER LEAVE THE FIRE BURNING WITHOUT THE SCREEN IN PLACE.

This should enable you to enjoy your home’s fireplace and obtain the maximum benefits from your investment. If you have any questions call Boston Brick & Stone at 626 296-7700. Our friendly receptionist will patch you through to one of our many competent field technicians who will be able to answer most if not all of your questions.

If your fireplace does start smoking while having a fire do not use fans to remove smoke from the room while the fire is still burning. The fan may suck more smoke out of the firebox and into the room. Open windows and doors to let the smoke out. Do not allow anyone to breathe the smoke, especially the elderly, young children or people with respiratory problems. Get them out into the fresh air.

1. Have your system inspected by a certified, competent inspector. The inspector will identify and investigate Red Flags that may uncover potential safety threats in your fireplace system. It is not worth risking your health and property for the relatively small fee it costs to have your system certified as safe. The peace of mind alone is worth the fee. After the inspector has cleared your fireplace for regular use, follow these tips if you have a drafting problem.
2. The most common cause of smoke suddenly entering the room is the damper has been shut. Throat-mounted dampers have a handle that hangs down into the firebox. If one is not careful this handle can be knocked back when inserting another log on the fire. I’ve done it several times myself. Once closed the damper will not allow any more products of combustion up into the chimney flue and smoke will begin to fill the room. Simply reach into the firebox with a poker and pull the handle toward you. This will normally open the throat-mounted damper. Not all dampers are the same so be sure you are familiar with how to open and close your damper before you start the fire.
3. Another common cause is the spark arrestor coming clogged up with soot after extended periods of use. The spark arrester is a metal screen, which is normally part of the chimney cap. The small holes allow smoke and hot gasses to pass through but stop large sparks or embers from passing through. If the system has not been swept for some time these small holes can become closed off by the soot build up. Rather than climbing up on the roof and hitting the spark arrester a few times with a hammer or the like there is another quick fix. Follow these simple steps:
   1. Grab some aluminum foil from the kitchen.B) Grab some tape. Be sure the tape you use will not damage the finish on the facing of your fireplace.
   2. Using the aluminum foil, close off the top 6-inches of the fireplace by stretching it across the top of the firebox opening.
   3. Tape the aluminum in place with the tape.
   4. This should help the fire draft until the fire burns itself out.
4. If there is a return air vent for your furnace in the same room as your fireplace and you suspect that it has been causing your fireplace to smoke — turn the unit off so it does not operate.
5. Make sure the metal grate (that the logs are placed on to burn) is pushed back far enough into the fireplace.
6. If you have a gas log lighter simply stack some dry wood, about three pieces, in the fireplace metal grate. Roll some newspaper into a “log” and place it beside the pipe with the holes in it. This pipe is the gas log lighter. Light the newspaper “log” on fire and be sure it is burning before you turn on the gas. Once you are sure the newspaper log is producing a nice flame slowly turn the gas shut-off valve on until you here a hissing sound. If the gas does not ignite after 5 seconds turn the gas off. Call a professional to inspect the gas line. Normally it will ignite and engulf the three logs with flame. Adjust the valve until the wood logs are engulfed with flame. Once the logs are burning and producing flames on their own turn the gas shut-off valve off.
7. If you do not have a log lighter, warm the flue up by doing the following. Take several sheets of newspaper and roll them into a “log”. Light the newspaper “log” on fire and stick it up the throat as far as you comfortably can. Allow the newspaper to burn half way then drop it onto the wood. This will warm the flue up and start the warm air rising up which will aid the draft.
8. If at any time during the fire your fireplace allows smoke into the room, follow the instructions given above with the aluminum foil.

This should enable you to enjoy your home’s fireplace and obtain the maximum benefits from your investment. If you have any questions call Boston Brick & Stone at 626 296-7700. Our friendly receptionist will patch you through to one of our many competent field technicians who will be able to answer most if not all of your questions.

For most, real estate transactions are one of the single largest financial transactions of a lifetime. Having all the facts to hand is imperative when facing a decision of this magnitude. The importance of full disclosure of the actual present condition of the property cannot be understated. Complete, professional inspections are the best weapon to hand for the prudent buyer or seller. From the foundation to the roof to built-in appliances, every aspect of the home is covered.

Fireplaces are such a wonderful aspect to homes and add to their value. It is a wise decision to have the fireplace and chimney inspected by a certified chimney inspector during the real estate transaction.

The National Fire Protection Agency’s Code 211

The National Fire Protection Agency’s Code 211 mandates annual inspections as well as after every major event such as an earthquake or windstorm and at every change of owner.

The purpose of any inspection is to clarify the condition of each chimney as to:

• Safety
• Function
• Code Compliance

A home inspector performs a Level I inspection but this does not ensure that all of the conditions of the chimney have been looked at. It is a brief inspection for Red Flags that if found would warrant further inspection by a professional. For example, most inspectors will not be able to tell you if the drafting ratios in the chimney are adequate. A thorough inspection by a chimney professional will bring you up to date on all of the conditions present in your chimney and what they mean in terms of dollars, workability and safety. Ideally you should also get a complete set of solutions, presented in a step by step format, along with how much it will cost to correct any problems found.

When buying a home take a look at the fireplace. If the fireplace facing and firebox have been painted over this could point to problems.The seller could simply be attempting to improve the overall aesthetic appearance of their home by painting the fireplace. However, this usually indicates that the fireplace did not work well so the owner tried to hide this fact by painting over the soot stained bricks, plaster, stone or tile. In addition, the paint may not be a high temperature paint and when subjected to high temperatures it could release toxic fumes. Have the chimney inspected by a certified chimney inspector to make sure.

Similarly, chimney exteriors are sometimes painted over. Keep an eye out for this. This may be an attempt to hide a structural break by caulking or otherwise patching up the crack and then painting over it. This is unacceptable as it does nothing to improve the condition of the chimney.

If a fireplace looks as if it has never been used this should be looked into.If an older home has a chimney that has never been used there could be something wrong with the chimney. Remember, back when the house was built the fireplace was usually the only source of heat. One that has never been used means that there is almost certainly something wrong with it. Have it checked out.

The age of the chimney is something to ask about? If the chimney was built before 1940 it should definitely be inspected by a chimney inspector.

Earthquakes and chimneys

The Long Beach earthquake, estimated magnitude 6.25, occurred at 5:55 p.m., March 10, 1933. Engineered buildings and reinforced concrete buildings sustained little or no structural damage in the earthquake. Brick buildings with unreinforced masonry walls, including many of the school buildings in Long Beach and surrounding areas, failed catastrophically.

If the earthquake had struck a few hours earlier, when school was in session, the loss of life would have been appalling. As it was, 120 people died in the quake largely from collapsed houses and small buildings or falling debris, including 5 children who died in failed gymnasia (ref: http://nisee.berkeley.edu/long_beach/long_beach.html).

Chimney design changed after the Long Beach earthquake. Prior to 1939 most chimneys were not reinforced, had ash mortar and many were not lined. A single wythe ash mortar chimney can be a real safety hazard and must be carefully looked at.

Today mortar consists of Portland Cement mixed with sand and water. It hardens to be very hard and has an excellent bond. Mortar before 1939 was made from sand, lime and ashes. Although it had compression strength it had a poor bond strength which is what is needed to hold the chimney together in an earthquake.

Some homes have pre-fabricated chimneys. These should automatically be inspected.

Basically there are 3 categories of chimneys:

1. There are the masonry chimneys which are made of brick, concrete and mortar.
2. There is the prefab which is manufactured at a factory and is installed as a unit. There are several kinds of prefab (pre-fabricated) which include the Isokern which can be made to look like a masonry chimney.
3. Then there is the hybrid chimney which has a masonry base, firebox and smoke chamber but it then transforms into a high temperature pipe with a steel stud frame. This last system is what the majority of repairs made in Los Angeles consist of.

A pre-fab chimney is a system pre-fabricated or manufactured at a factory some where. It typically has a metal fire box and a thin metal pipe. The pipe is kept cool by air rushing through the cooling cavity in the pipe.

Simple mistakes made during prefab installations could be disastrous. If the pipe comes apart inside of the wood framed chase a fire is very likely. Most chimney fires are caused by prefab chimney systems. If the home you consider buying has a pre-fabricated chimney ensure you have it inspected.

There is a trick to tell what type of chimney you have:

Real bricks in the firebox usually mean you have a masonry system. The top of the chimney offers clues as well. If you can see a clay type square or oval pipe protruding out the top of the chimney stack you have a masonry fireplace and chimney system.

• If you can see a metal pipe with a metal cap that fits the pipe perfectly, protruding out the top, chances are you have some kind of a prefab.
• Look at the firebox. Does it have a metal box? If so you have a prefab. If it is all brick and mortar but with the metal pipe protruding out of the top you probably have a hybrid system.
• If a home inspector says that your chimney was in “A” condition should you go to the expense of having the chimney inspected?
• If the chimney has been used successfully and there are no Red Flags visible then a complete chimney inspection is probably a waste of money and time. However, if you want to be 100% sure, a complete inspection by a chimney professional is required.
• Is it possible that a home inspector may miss something that is seriously wrong with a chimney? As hard-working and conscientious as home inspectors may be, the answer is unfortunately yes.

Almost all Home Inspection Contracts cover the fact that they are performing a visual inspection and that they do not guarantee they will discover every problem that may exist.

Chimneys that leak can lead to future difficulties. What could cause a chimney to leak?

There are several possibilities. The number one cause is the roof/chimney intersection. If this is not properly flashed it will leak. Number 2 cause is no rain cap. Rain will come into the flue of the chimney and begin to saturate the inside of the chimney. If the geographic area you live in receives 3-inches of rain you will get 3-inches dumped into the chimney. If we get 15-inches over a 2 week period, as during the winter of 2004-2005, your chimney will probably leak.

Saturation is another cause. During the winter of 2004-2005 many chimneys leaked that had adequate flashing and chimney caps. The bricks, being porous, and exposed to weeks of heavy rain, simply absorbed so much water the water by-passed the flashing and showed up in the house. Lastly there is “wicking”. Water saturating the soil around the base of the chimney will “wick” up through the porous masonry and show up inside the house. This condition is almost always caused by a poor drainage situation coupled with over irrigating or a downspout from the roof depositing a lot of water near the chimney. All water should drain away from the house, not only the chimney.

Is it a good idea to have a rain cap installed on the chimney?

Sometimes you’ll notice a white-looking substance growing on a chimney where it got wet. This white powdery substance is called “Efflorescence”. The word comes to us from chemistry, and means loss of water from crystal. When a crystalline substance loses water a deposit is left and this process and the actual deposit is called efflorescence. It is harmless and is formed from a mineral which is basically a water soluble salt. It will wash away with special detergents and will stop appearing once the source of water is removed. When noticed, it is a good sign that the chimney should be inspected.

Misconceptions can arise when scheduling a home inspection.

Some feel that the Home Inspector will be able to provide a full disclosure when it comes to chimneys. As hard working as Home Inspectors may be at their jobs, frustrations naturally arise when additional appointments are required when it is suggested that a specified professional be called in.

Home Inspectors, during their Level 1 Chimney Inspections, frequently notice items that require more on an inspection. Not to fault the Home Inspector, but a Level II inspection requires that a Certified Chimney Inspector be called in. That is why Real Estate Agents attempting to get answers on chimney safety, structural integrity and overall functionality commonly hear Home Inspectors state, “That is beyond the scope of our inspection” or “This needs to be referred to a chimney professional.”

Hopefully, armed with the above information, you will know when it is time to call in the certified chimney inspection professional.

Several individuals started their own companies that did nothing but inspect chimneys. Existing chimney sweep companies began to focus more and more on the inspection aspect of their business. Contractors like Boston Brick & Stone began to charge for the inspections as more and more people wanted to know if their chimneys were safe to use.

Immediately after the Northridge earthquake the Building and Safety departments were overwhelmed with inspection requests. To solve this they started a program where licensed contractors could become “certified” to pull a permit and repair a chimney without the normally required city inspections. After the job was complete the contractor received a sticky “foil” certificate that was to be placed inside the electrical panel box. This “foil” certificate had a number on it and attested to the fact that a permit was pulled.

This program was a dismal failure and was discontinued in December of 1994 after several chimney fires ensued on the newly repaired chimneys. We still run into these chimneys today and although they may look fine on the outside the usual is a horror story within the chimney itself.

Even though chimneys were required to have inspections after December 1994, not all inspectors understood the City supplied detail, which the repair was based on. If the city inspectors had a difficult time with the detail the usual General Contractor was seldom anywhere close to what the detail demanded. Boston Brick & Stone was called in on numerous chimneys that were abandoned by General Contractors who were not familiar with the detail or even basic chimney repairs. We finished some but mostly we had to take them down and start again.

Then there are the chimneys repaired by unlicensed contractors who were riding the boom wave of earthquake repair in the few years after the Northridge quake. These unscrupulous con men would lie and make the repairs without permits or inspections. The mistakes made by these guys would be amusing if they weren’t so dangerous. You name it, we’ve seen it. And just when we thought we could say we have seen it all another chimney comes our way that defies all logic.

In addition to the dangers an uninspected chimney represents, there are the financial liabilities of buying a property that has an unsafe or damaged chimney attached to it.

Whenever I am faced with a potentially dangerous situation I habitually seek the advice of known professionals in that particular field. For example, there is the advice of several firemen who told us they do not leave their homes for any long period of time with their appliances plugged in. They have seen more fires start by faulty electrical appliances than any other single cause. I follow that rule and not long after adopting that policy I ran into a customer who lost his home and all of his possessions because the transformer on his fish tank pump caught on fire while he was on a family vacation. I am a professional in the chimney industry and I can say with complete certainty that I would never buy a house anywhere, especially not in earthquake country, without a thorough examination of the chimney.

More and more real estate professionals are opting to have the chimney inspected before the property is listed so they won’t be presented with any surprises. The only thing worse than finding out there is a $10,000.00 chimney problem after the price of the home has been accepted is being dragged through litigation by the eventual buyer after they discover the problem.

The property is one of Pasadena’s most treasured residential landmarks. A Paul Williams masterpiece set on over 3 acres overlooking the Arroyo. The entire house is constructed of a classic Ironspot brick which is normally only used as a decorative feature such as a fireplace facing. Trimmed with scaled precast concrete quoins and balustrades the house truly takes your breath away, especially if you are a mason and as fond of bricks and concrete as I am.

The chimney as it was before we started the demolition. Note the greenish blue steel band around the chimney just above the roofline. This steel band was keeping the chimney from falling over.

The problem this repair presented was that the chimneys were constructed from the same bricks as the house and although we looked nationwide we were unable to find enough bricks to repair the chimney in the standard adhered thin brick method. Cutting then adhering the existing brick presented several problems in itself, even if we could have found a perfect match brick. Each chimney has 13 courses of decorative corbelling. Imagine 13 layers of bricks that extend out past the brick below it to form a unique decorative design. To complicate it further some of these protruding bricks were the “points” of the brick. See the photo below and I’m sure you will appreciate the magnitude of this problem.

Years ago we simply would have had the chimney engineered to repair it with concrete, reinforcing steel and the original brick. We would have constructed a “Bond Beam” which would have been secured to the actual structure of the house so it could not go anywhere in the event of the next earthquake. However building officials have adopted a policy of not allowing this method of repair any longer. Even when the chimney has reinforcing steel in the structure down to the footing we have had problems getting the building officials to issue the permit. The basic ideal is to keep the weight above the roofline down to a minimum. It is a sound idea. With no little weight rising high in the air the chance of bodily harm because of an earthquake is drastically reduced.

The above photo shows a concrete"skirt" section separated from the main chimney

To really make this a challenge the two chimneys had a decorative “skirt” just above the roofline made of solid concrete. Each skirt consisted of eight pieces of solid concrete weighing between 500 and 600 pounds. One of the two chimneys consists of three separate fireplaces and rises almost 60 feet off of the ground. The solid concrete “skirt” was about to fall to the ground and was being held in place by a steel band someone had welded around the chimney just below the skirt. We were wary that the demolition of the chimney would cause the skirt to slip off and we would come down with the chimney and end up in a heap on the ground.

With those challenges the Technical Department of Boston Brick & Stone set to work with our engineer and we came up with a plan. A “super” scaffold system was designed and erected that would survive the possible collapse of the concrete “skirt”. I fell back upon my experience in the commercial/industrial construction arena and proposed that we use a method known as “Anchored Veneer”. We discussed this with our engineer and decided to incorporate this “skyscraper” technology and employ anchored brick veneer set on a super strong steel frame. This way we could use the original brick and follow the original design almost perfectly. Full bricks can be used and “anchored” directly to the heavy gauge steel studs with specially designed steel ties. I’ve included a photo of the “Anchoring Ties” so you can see how they work.

The above photo shows the brick anchoring ties we used

The solid concrete “skirt” would be replaced with a lightweight precast concrete skirt that is hollow but looks the same.

Above photo shows the light weight cast concrete skirt

With the plan in place we got to work setting up the “Super” scaffold system built on a wood platform that spanned the set of stairs and the 30 foot drop. After several trips to the Pasadena Permit center we finally had our approved permit.

The demolishing went perfectly. We succeeded in lowering the solid concrete skirt with a series of ropes and pulleys and 6 large men at the end of the rope on the ground. I can tell you I breathed a tremendous sigh of relief once that skirt was on the ground.

Once the demolition was successfully completed to just below the roofline we stopped and re-evaluated the plan to go all the way down to the level of the first floor fire place. We closely examined the condition of the flue from the roofline down with our state-of-the-art camera scanning equipment. We knew there were serious separations in the clay flue liners but they were not caused by any seismic activity. It was obvious that they were placed that way by the original masons who built the chimneys and that the mortar they had set in place simply fell out over time. Because there was no structural damage we were free to employ the latest flue saving technology and save the remaining portion of the chimney. This plan had several advantages. The greatest of which was the option of placing the bond beam at the attic floor level. This allowed us to tie this bond beam into the structure at the attic floor level which is much stronger than tying it to the only the wall.

The above photo shows the bond beam under construction

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Once approved by the city and the General Contractor in charge of the entire remodel we got to work on installing the new “Guardian Cast In Place Flue Liner” by Firesafe Industries. This is a simple idea combined with a superior cementous material that when correctly installs removes the 2-inch clearance to combustible code requirement. This cementous material has to be only ¾-inch thick to add structural strength to the chimney structure and remove this code requirement. The cementous material expands when heated so it closes any small cracks within the application as soon as a fire is started. Because it only has to be ¾-inch thick it does not reduce the flue area too much. So although these chimneys were right up against the wood structure of the house, the Guardian system not only made these chimneys safe – it brought them into code compliance.

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With the remaining original chimney system made safe and brought up to code we proceeded with the new construction. We used heavy gauge metal studs set with “X-Bracing”, the same basic idea that essential structures such as hospitals are constructed with. The “X-Bracing” provides incredible strength and stability. “Structural One” plywood was attached then we used Modified Bituthene for a waterproof barrier instead of the standard black paper. This provided us with a rubberized waterproof membrane that had elastic properties. We did not want any leaks! We used Sonotubes to form the flues through the bond beam.

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Once the bond beam was poured we coated the concrete with “Fire Guard”. Copper flashings were installed with the bricks and then the crickets were soldered in place, attached to the copper we had installed within the masonry structure. No way could this flashing ever pull out on us now – not in 1000 years!

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Next, the actual brick and anchoring system. Our master masons cleaned and reused the original brick and constructed the new portion of the chimney to match the original perfectly. The new owners of the property commented to me that they could not tell that the chimney had been repaired or even where the old chimney ended and the new portion began. No greater compliment could have been paid to me. The property has two other chimneys which were repaired after the 1994 earthquake but the contractor was not true to Paul William’s design and it is painfully obvious.

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The bracing system was installed next. This consisted of 3-inch diameter steel pipe which we had powder coated to withstand the weather. Two pipe braces on each chimney attached to 1/4-inch 3 x 3-inch angle iron within the chimney structure, bolted to the steel studs with 1/2-inch bolts. Inside the house we designed a steel rack which spanned the entire attic floor area and was bolted to the structural members of the house.

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With the braces, the bricks and the custom made precast concrete skirt in place we were faced with the final challenge. The top of the chimney had to support three clay decorative pots, keep rainwater out of the hollow chase and allow heated air to escape — all without violating any code requirements or altering the finished look from the original.

I sat up on that scaffold for several hours before I finally came up with a plan. I don’t want to give away any of our trade secrets here so I won’t elaborate on the design but I will say that it accomplished all of the above.

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The customer and the General Contractor were delighted with our work and our service. They promptly contracted Boston Brick & Stone to design and construct a Full Masonry chimney system to match the existing chimneys. This new chimney is to service the newly designed kitchen. In addition Boston Brick & Stone is restoring all of the brickwork on the house and on the guesthouse at the bottom of the property.

Several other projects are pending which include a pool, pool house and landscaping that we have submitted bids on and are awaiting final approval.

Tragically this beautiful house burned down on October 5th. The fire is still under investigation. See “A Historical Loss in Pasadena” another Boston Brick & Stone newsletter article that tells the whole story.

Our chimneys are still standing.

The crack starts at 1:00 on the arch and travels up to the corner.

This column sank about 4 inches.

First we supported the roof and remaining brickwork.

Lateral support was required to ensure safety.

We protected the fine finish of the ceiling with clean cloth pads.

Our Engineer and Technical Department discuss the repair.

The new footing is dug. See the mason in the trench?

Steel pipes with welded plates were placed inside the brick columns for support.

Rebar was placed in the outside columns and throughout the new structure.

The walls take shape.

The arches are carefully formed.

Note the red plumb lines. This allows precision arches.

The finished product.